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Self Bound Seam – Tutorial

May 28, 2013 by Abby 6 Comments

Self Bound Seam

Today’s seam is somewhat of a variation on the French Seam. Unlike the French Seam, a Self Bound Seam is worked on a completed seam. So if you decide down the track that your seams would be better off enclosed, as long as your seam allowance is wide enough you can do this. Great when you don’t have the time to finish them off now, but want to wear your garment out tonight!

The pressing of this seam can be fiddly, but it provides a neat finish on light to medium fabrics and lays nice and flat. As the name implies, the seam is bound by one side of the seam allowance which is folded and stitched over the other trimmed down seam allowance.

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How to Sew a Self Bound Seam – Tutorial

1. Self Bound Seam 2. Self Bound Seam

Ideally, you want to start with a 12 – 15mm (1/2 – 5/8″) wide seam allowance. If your seam is thinner, you may just find the pressing a bit fiddly. Sew your seam with right sides facing and press it to set the stitches.

3. Self Bound Seam
Trim the top seam allowance to 3mm (1/8″).
4. Self Bound Seam
Fold the bottom, wider seam allowance over so that the raw edge almost meets the raw edge of trimmed seam allowance. Press this fold into the seam allowance. Turn off the steam on your iron if you’re worried about burning your fingers, or use a ruler or your scissors to hold the fold in front of the iron.5. Self Bound SeamNow, fold the wider seam allowance over again encasing the trimmed seam allowance. Press the fold into the seam allowance again. It should be almost touching the original seam stitches.

6. Self Bound Seam
Working on only the seam allowance, stitch along the fold close to your seam.7. Self Bound SeamNow, press* the seam open with the finished seam to one side. Voilà!

*On lightweight delicate fabrics, it’s a good idea to place a pressing cloth or piece of brown paper between the fabric and seam allowance to prevent a pressing line showing on the front of the garment.

Filed Under: Seam Finishes, Sewing Tagged With: Seam Finishes, Sewing, Sewing 101, Tutorials

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Toni-Maree from Sew Jereli says

    May 28, 2013 at 10:49 am

    It looks lovely doesn’t it. I also read your bias bound seam finish on go to sew, the way you have done the pictures is excellent! Will be linking to them in future I am sure.

    Reply
  2. Sarah says

    May 28, 2013 at 1:14 pm

    Sew fancy! Thanks for sharing!
    http://www.bluesusanmakes.blogspot.com

    Reply
  3. Liz Beavis says

    May 28, 2013 at 3:10 pm

    I love your tutorials, just the right amount of detail and clear photos, thanks for sharing 🙂

    Reply
  4. Mrs. Lucky says

    May 28, 2013 at 3:55 pm

    This is an unusual finish for me, definitely good to know. I am sure it will become handy at times in the future. Thanks for sharing it.

    Reply
  5. Nicole says

    May 30, 2013 at 8:56 am

    Perfect timing! The dress on which I’m working is done in all French seams, but I wanted to fit it before sewing up the sides. Now, thanks to your post, all my seams can look lovely!

    Reply
  6. Janelle @ Emmaline Bags says

    May 30, 2013 at 10:24 am

    This is really cool, I haven’t seen this before! Love your tutorials.

    Reply

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