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French Seam – Tutorial

May 1, 2013 by Abby 9 Comments

French Seam Tutorial

French seams are a handy little skill to have in your repertoire. They’re great for delicate fabrics because they enclose the raw edges inside two seams, so any fraying will stay hidden in the seam. And because you’re sewing two seams, they make strong seams with a bit of insurance. They take a little extra time, but look lovely and neat on the wrong side and really add a professional finish. They work best on straight seams or seams with only a slight curve, such as the side seams of skirts, trousers or tops.

Would you believe that in France they call it an ‘English Seam’?! I like to use French Seams when making pillowcases or fitted sheets for strength and when sewing the sides seams of tops for myself for loveliness. They make you smile when you look at them. Or is that just me?
How to sew a French Seam – Tutorial
To start off with, your given seam allowance needs to be split into two, giving a little bit for each part of the seam:
– A 1.5cm seam allowance will be split into: 5mm for the first seam, then 1cm for the second
– A 1cm seam allowance will be split into: 5mm for the first seam, then 5mm for the second
– A 5/8″ seam allowance will be split into: 1/4″ for the first seam, then 3/8″ for the second
– A 1/2″ seam allowance will be split into: 1/4″ for the first seam, then 1/4″ for the second
French Seam - Step 1 French Seam - Step 2

For the first seam, pin your pieces wrong sides together. This is opposite to the way you normally would. Sew your first seam, using the measurements above.

French Seam - Step 3Press along the seam to set it. Then open out the fabric and press the seam to one side.

French Seam - Step 4Now, fold the fabric over so that the right sides of the fabric are facing, and press the seam flat.

French Seam - Step 5 French Seam - Step 6Open the fabric and trim the seam allowance down to 3mm (1/8″). It’s easier to press the seam before you trim the seam allowance off, even though it might not seem like it.

Now you can sew the second seam. Your fabric will be right sides together (like normal). Sew your second seam, using the measurements above. Your raw seam is now hidden inside the second seam. Lovely!

French Seam - Step 7Open out the fabric and press the seam to one side and you’re done!

French Seam Tutorial

Aren’t they pretty? What other tutorials would you like to see on seam finishes?

Filed Under: Seam Finishes, Sewing Tagged With: French Seam, Seam Finishes, Sewing, Sewing 101, Tutorials

Previous Post: « KCW – Coastal Cargos, Flashback Tees and Fancy Pants
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Toni-Maree from Sew Jereli says

    May 1, 2013 at 9:51 am

    I have been linking to this post at Go-To Sew. Better go switch them 😉

    Reply
  2. Liz Beavis says

    May 1, 2013 at 12:34 pm

    They do look very neat, I’ve never tried them, but they don’t look too tricky now you’ve shown me, thanks for sharing! As for other sewing tutorials, I have so much to learn, I don’t know what I don’t know! Its usually not until I try to put a pattern together and get to one of those tricky steps that I can’t understand, so I just try to figure out what the end result is supposed to be and try to do something like what the instructions say. Those are the things I need tutorials for!!! I will let you know next time I get stuck on a tricky step! Meanwhile, do you crochet? Fancy teaching me (and the internet) how to crochet a ball? I’d love to make one of those little toys for our new nephew. I haven’t been able to find a tutorial that I can follow….

    Reply
    • thingsforboys says

      May 1, 2013 at 12:39 pm

      I know what you mean when you say ‘you don’t know what you don’t know.’ I think that happens a lot with us self taught crafters. Crochet is one craft I haven’t picked up yet, but I do have a series coming up this month on how to get started with knitting.

      Reply
    • Liz Beavis says

      May 7, 2013 at 3:25 pm

      knitting help is also appreciated!

      Reply
  3. Cassandra says

    May 1, 2013 at 2:01 pm

    Great tutorial Abby. I need to spend more time learning techniques like this 🙂

    Reply
    • thingsforboys says

      May 1, 2013 at 8:44 pm

      I’ll be putting one up a month Cass, so keep an eye out.

      Reply
  4. Roslyn@Sew Delicious says

    May 1, 2013 at 6:55 pm

    I love french seams! They are so neat and pretty 🙂

    Reply
  5. Melissa Antolovic says

    May 2, 2013 at 1:17 pm

    I also use them when I’m to lazy to change the colour on the overlocker!

    Reply
    • thingsforboys says

      May 2, 2013 at 5:29 pm

      I like your thinking, Melissa!

      Reply

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