I’ve had the Sorbetto on my ‘To Sew’ list for ages. It’s a free pattern with nice simple lines and only two pattern pieces. Ros and I have talked about making it and she’s even made some up. With Selfish Sewing Week coming up, I wanted to get the fit spot on so that I can whip up a few.
First, I took my bust measurement and according to that I should make up a size 6…So a few weeks ago, I did! To make the muslin quickly, I left off the centre pleat and have left the seams and edges unfinished. I have read that the top is very short, so I made the size 6, but with the size 18 length.
As you can see, the fit is less than ideal. It’s too wide on the shoulders, and gapes a lot around the arm. I’m glad I added the extra length though…it really needs it! I’m not very tall either, so I’m surprised at the length.
I recently bought a Craftsy class called Sew the Perfect Fit and got busy watching it. Boy have I learnt a lot!
The first thing is that if you are big busted (bigger than a B), you should use your high bust measurement (see second pic here for a how to) to pick the pattern size. This means that the neck and shoulders of the pattern will fit you correctly. Taking this measurement, I was a size 0 for the pattern…big difference!
Commercial patterns are designed for a B cup, so if you are bigger than this, you then need to adjust the pattern to get your ‘girls’ to fit. This is called a Full Bust Adjustment, or FBA. I’ve read that the Colette patterns are designed for a C cup, so a little less adjustment is needed. I followed this tutorial from Sew L.A. to make the FBA.
After making the FBA adjustments to the size 0 pattern, I made up another muslin. It fit much better but still needed a few more adjustments. Annoyingly, I can’t find this muslin, so have no pictures to show you.
As I said, the bust was great, so that didn’t need any more adjusting. I had a little gaping at the neck on the front and back, so followed this tutorial to fix that. Because I only needed a small adjustment, I used method One. I also cut the neckline slightly lower.
After making these changes, I whipped up my third muslin, shown above. I’m really happy with the bust and the front and back neckline…no more gaping! It does look like it’s bunching a little bit across my back, but I think that’s because I’m wearing a feeding tank underneath.
I’m really looking forward to sewing up a few ‘good’ versions of the pattern next week. In the top picture you can see the fabric I’ve picked out for my first one. The fabric and binding are from Hubby’s Grandmother’s stash.
Are you planning some selfish sewing? What are you going to make?
Chelsie C says
I’ve had my eye on this pattern! But I just bought a new knit dress pattern (called the Lady Skater Dress) and I am going to try to make a peplum shirt from it. Fingers croseed!
thingsforboys says
I’ve seen some great Lady Skaters! Can’t wait to see your version.
Monica says
I’ve had this top bookmarked for ages but never got around to it (like every other craft project these days). What kind of fabric did you use for your muslins?
thingsforboys says
The patterned fabric was from the op shop. The plain fabric is an awful see through poly-cotton table cloth. Old sheets are good for making muslins, or if you have to buy fabric, the markdown fabrics or polypop. Whatever you can find that is cheap and a similar weight to the fabric you want to use.
Louise Michie says
Just because it is an Indie pattern does not mean it will fit you. Learn to make your own. Or else buy one of those multi-size pattern put out by the big companies. Trust yourself. Do your own thing. Walk your own path. You are not responsible for the income of somebody else.
Laura says
I don’t really understand your logic Louise. Abby knew that it would probably not fit her perfectly so made several muslins. Also, did you read that this pattern is free and multi-size? Patterns from the big companies are notorious for having terrible fit.
thingsforboys says
I don’t have the skills or time to draft patterns from scratch for myself. I’m thankful that companies like Coletterie offer free patterns like this. My post is more about my foray into the world of pattern fitting techniques. I could never expect any pattern to fit me without alterations. I’m a DD and patterns are drafted for a B or C cup. I also have a very narrow back, slumped shoulders, a sway back and a short waist…but I digress!
Roslyn says
I disagree with Louise. I actually find fit a lot better with indie patterns than commercial ones. Your muslins look great. It’s fantastic that the Coletterie offer this pattern for free.
Laura says
The fit of the last muslin looks great. Can’t wait to see the ones you make. Maybe one day I’ll finish sewing my cut out Sorbetto pieces together 🙂
Laura - Behind the Hedgerow says
Oh I love posts like these – it’s so informative hearing about the fitting process. Well done sticking with it till you got it right – I usually get too frustrated and either give up or live with imperfection. Would you recommend the Craftsy courses?? I’ve been reading a bit about them.
thingsforboys says
I’m halfway through 2 at the moment. The fitting one I mentioned is very thorough and if you followed it exactly would give a perfect result. You need a friend to help you if you use her method though, and I think it needs to be someone who has seen the class too which makes it tricky. I’ve still learnt a lot though and have been able to apply it by myself. I’m also doing a leather bag making course, which has me super excited to make a leather handbag. You can pick the courses up fairly cheaply, so I think they’re good value. Very flexible way to learn!
Toni-Maree @ Sew Jereli says
These look so great Abby. I seriously cant believe you get all this done with bub 🙂
I am lazy with my recent selfish sewing, I didnt do any tank fitting. My favourite RTW tank is loose and I always layer it with a colourful singlet underneath 🙂
Jo says
Well done with all your adjustments Abby. I tend to just go with ‘near enough is good enough’ for myself, being a bit lazy on that front. But also I’m fortunate in that I’m quite a standard size and shape so not too much adjustment is needed – I’ve often thought if I had to do many adjustments I would get too many garments sewn. And yes, super well done for getting all this done with bub!!
Jo says
Oops… I mean I wouldn’t get too many garments sewn…
Emily says
Looking good! The first sorbetto I made was too short. My second was just right but in a crazy fabric. Maybe I’ll finally sew up my third. I found that voile/lawn worked much better than a stiffer cotton b/c the drapiness of the voile makes the top look less boxy, especially with the extended length.
Kate S. says
Wow, I just made my first sorbetto today and had exactly the same fit issues! I don’t think I’m dedicated enough right now to figure out the adjustments but its good to know that that is what I would need to do if I wanted it to fit right.