This is a simple hem finish that has a few benefits. It is a great option for bulky fabrics as it reduces the seam bulk. It is also my go-to when I need to keep as much length as possible. This makes it great for pants and skirts that you would like a little longer. It also adds a pop of colour to the inside of your garment which is always nice.
The amount of bias tape you will need depends on the item you are hemming. You will need the length of the hem, plus about 4 inches extra for joining the ends. The width of bias tape you use is up to you. Make your decision based on how far you want the finished hem stitching to be from the edge of your hem.
Unfold one edge of the bias binding, and pin it to the raw edge of your hem. Leave about 2 inches of extra bias binding at the start and end.
Stitch the bias tape down, leaving the tails free.
Your gap should be about 2 inches. To join the bias tape, pin it together where it joins, making sure it is laying flat against the fabric. Stitch the two ends of the tape together.
Press the seam open and trim down. Stitch the rest of the bias binding down, overlapping your stitching from earlier.
Fold the binding over and press the seam open. Then fold the binding over to the wrong side and press again. You want a tiny bit of the fabric edge to show on the wrong side. This way, you will be sure the binding wont show from the right side.
Stitch the bias tape down, keeping close to the edge. You may want to use different coloured threads here, to match each side.
Here are a few projects I have used this method in:
1. I have used it as a hidden feature in these shorts. I used a contrast topstitching thread on the right side of the hem. Because the hem was nice and straight, I actually cut the binding on the straight grain, rather than on the bias.
2. Here this method is used to finish the arm hole on a top. Bias binding is used to work with the curve of the arm hole.
3. This is the perfect way to finish a pair of pants that are slightly too short. This method only used 1/4″ of the pant fabric in the hem.