I’ve had the Sorbetto on my ‘To Sew’ list for ages. It’s a free pattern with nice simple lines and only two pattern pieces. Ros and I have talked about making it and she’s even made some up. With Selfish Sewing Week coming up, I wanted to get the fit spot on so that I can whip up a few.
First, I took my bust measurement and according to that I should make up a size 6…So a few weeks ago, I did! To make the muslin quickly, I left off the centre pleat and have left the seams and edges unfinished. I have read that the top is very short, so I made the size 6, but with the size 18 length.
As you can see, the fit is less than ideal. It’s too wide on the shoulders, and gapes a lot around the arm. I’m glad I added the extra length though…it really needs it! I’m not very tall either, so I’m surprised at the length.
I recently bought a Craftsy class called Sew the Perfect Fit and got busy watching it. Boy have I learnt a lot!
The first thing is that if you are big busted (bigger than a B), you should use your high bust measurement (see second pic here for a how to) to pick the pattern size. This means that the neck and shoulders of the pattern will fit you correctly. Taking this measurement, I was a size 0 for the pattern…big difference!
Commercial patterns are designed for a B cup, so if you are bigger than this, you then need to adjust the pattern to get your ‘girls’ to fit. This is called a Full Bust Adjustment, or FBA. I’ve read that the Colette patterns are designed for a C cup, so a little less adjustment is needed. I followed this tutorial from Sew L.A. to make the FBA.
After making the FBA adjustments to the size 0 pattern, I made up another muslin. It fit much better but still needed a few more adjustments. Annoyingly, I can’t find this muslin, so have no pictures to show you.
As I said, the bust was great, so that didn’t need any more adjusting. I had a little gaping at the neck on the front and back, so followed this tutorial to fix that. Because I only needed a small adjustment, I used method One. I also cut the neckline slightly lower.
After making these changes, I whipped up my third muslin, shown above. I’m really happy with the bust and the front and back neckline…no more gaping! It does look like it’s bunching a little bit across my back, but I think that’s because I’m wearing a feeding tank underneath.
I’m really looking forward to sewing up a few ‘good’ versions of the pattern next week. In the top picture you can see the fabric I’ve picked out for my first one. The fabric and binding are from Hubby’s Grandmother’s stash.
Are you planning some selfish sewing? What are you going to make?